Leopard Gecko Care
By; Laurence hardy

Sec.1 Natural history;
The leopard Gecko comes from the rock strewn savanna deserts of India and Pakistan. That being said their natural substrate is rock and clay, contrary to popular belief, it is not sand. During the day leopard geckos seek out cool damp places to hide during the heat of the day. They are nocturnal as most desert dwellers are.

Sec.2 Housing;
Leopard geckos are, in general, inactive, so a simple 10 gallon aquarium with a screen lid will do nicely for one adult. As a rule you should add at the very least 5 gallons for every gecko. (15 gallons for a pair, 20 for a trio. Etc). A screen lid is mandatory as they will escape given the chance. These geckos are terrestrial so length of the terrarium is more important than height. There must be at least two hides one on the cool side and one on the warm side. Also a humid hide I recommended for shedding. A simple humid hide is a Tupperware container with some damp paper towels or peat moss. Mist the humid hide daily. You will also need a water dish and a small dish full of calcium supplement. The humidity must be between 30-50 percent. To monitor the temps install two thermometers, one for the cool side and one for the warm side. As a substrate rept-carpet or paper towels are great choises.

Sec.3 lighting;
No special lighting is required for these geckos as they are nocturnal. A UVB/UVA light can be used for vitamin D3 synthesis and better viewing if desired.

Sec.4 Heating
Leopard geckos are Ectotherms which means they cannot produce their own body heat and must use the surrounding heat to regulate their body temperature. Heat must be produced in their cage in the form of overhead heat or underbelly heat. The latter is the most desirable, as in the wild they would find heat in the form of rock that was heated during the day that remained heated through the night. Before we go on it should be noted that you should not heat the entire terrarium rather you should strive to achieve what is called a Thermal gradient. This means that you should only heat one side (preferably one third to one half.) of the terrarium, thereby allowing the gecko to choose which side to go to allowing it to reach its desired temperature. Artificial heaters come in many forms. Some of the most favored are; under tank heaters, (U.T.H.) heat lights, and artificial rock shaped heaters. These “hot rocks” are to be avoided as they can cause serious burns on a reptile’s underside. Reptile’s nervous systems are not very sensitive to feeling, particularly on their underbellies. This is why it is important not to use hot rocks; because the gecko will lay on it and not relies it is being burned! The temperature on the warm side should be 85 to 92 degrees Fahrenheit. The cool side should be 75 to 80 degrees. If a heat light is to be used make sure that it is red or blue as these colors will not disturb its nocturnal activities.






Sec.5 Foods and Feeding
Leopard geckos are insectivores which means; they eat live insects. If the thought of handling live insects bothers you, then perhaps a leopard gecko is not the pet for you. Leopard geckos can eat a wide variety of insects. Crickets, mealworms, and wax worms are among the favorites. Wax worms should be fed only as a snack, because if you feed too many, the gecko will become obese. Crickets are very easy to keep and breed. All you need are; a tub to keep them in, something for them to climb in, (such as pieces of egg carton) and food. All that you need to do is set up the tub add the egg carton and a piece of apple and you’re done! Just replace the apple every few days. To breed them simply add an inch of dirt on the bottom and mist daily. Baby leopard geckos eat every day. Adults eat every other day or three times a week. Feed 4-5 insects roughly ¾ the size of the gecko’s head. For leopard geckos less than 6 months of age dust their food with a calcium supplement 3 times a week. For adults, twice a week is fine. Make sure the supplement you are using has vitamin D3 in it.

Sec.6 Health
Leopard geckos are quite hardy and may never need a trip to the vet, but illnesses to occasionally arise. Some reasons to call the vet are;

A white cheese-like substance in the mouth,
Rasping or clicking while breathing,
Blood in its stool,
Swelling around the joints,
Discharge from the eyes, nose, or mouth,
Loss of interest in food, weight loss,
Abnormally wrinkly or loose looking skin.

If you notice any of the signs above, please contact an experienced reptile vet as soon as possible.